This is one of 10 examples of the Voutilainen 217QRS* in a 39mm white gold case. The watch, which features an entirely integrated retrograde date complication, has a dial adorned with the kind of beautiful and varied guilloché typical of the watchmaker's style. This particular example is made special by the salmon shade of the dial, custom ordered by the original owner. Powering it is the manually wound Calibre 28, with a large balance wheel and twin escapement wheels giving direct impulse to it. Even within the small catalogue that is the 217QRS, this example represents a singular expression of the line’s aesthetic.

An iteration of the Vingt-8 aesthetic first seen in 2018, the 217QRS was made in a limited series of 10 pieces each in white gold, rose gold and platinum. The 39mm case was marked apart by a slimmer, longer and straighter variant of the teardrop-form lugs that have come to be a signature of the Voutilainen brand. This detail significantly alters the case-side view, while in profile the lugs have a slight concavity to them. Their form is repeated in the bezel as well as the subtly concave midcase.

This example, one of 10 cased in white gold, is made all the more special by the attractive salmon hue of the dial. The brushed chapter of printed minute plots – with applied ones at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock – gives way to an engine turned ring of Clous de Paris. Here is a quarter chapter of applied Arabic indices, with applied batons for the remaining hours. Further in is the printed arc of the date complication – it is plied by a pointer-style retrograde hand. The date is adjusted by pushing the crown – one push advances the date by a day. When the date gets to the 31st, it makes its way back to the first of the month in a smooth, sweeping motion. The date complication, that is entirely integrated into the movement, is specially devised to avoid the indicator hand bouncing back to the first of the month. This was done with a view to minimise wear on the components as well as eliminating the possibility of inaccurate indication.

The centre of the dial is decorated with a billowing radial pattern of engine turning. Overlapping with the ring of the date complication is a subsidiary register with a brushed chapter of printed seconds and a centre with a basket-weave pattern of guilloché. All hands – be they the observatoire ones that tell the time, the crescent ended one for the date or the simple pointer for the seconds – are evenly heat-blued.

The movement, viewed through the sapphire caseback, is a manually wound calibre crafted from brass. While similar to the movement powering the Vingt-8, the Calibre 28 not only incorporates the date complication, it also features an unusually large, 13.8mm diameter balance wheel that beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour. The twin escapement wheels give direct impulse to the balance wheel through an impulse roller. This arrangement is noted for its efficiency in terms of energy usage as well as the reduced wear on components.

The movement’s large, three-quarter plate wears Côtes de Genève with edges decorated with beautiful anglage. The escapement bridges are also similarly decorated while the stainless-steel balance bridge is black polished. Two plaques, one with the brand mark on the three-quarter bridge and one with the serial number on the baseplate, adorn the movement. The rim of the caseback wears the brand mark, precious case metal hallmark as well as the serial number out of 10.

The 217 QRS represents a small but significant chapter of the Voutilainen story, not just in aesthetics but also the technicality of its calibre. Within this distinguished line, this particular example represents a very singular execution. The price includes the option to service the watch within the first year of ownership.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Voutilainen 217QRS will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Voutilainen 217QRS is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear and have been well preserved. The dial, hands, and movement show no signs of imperfection. The hallmarks and engravings on both the buckle and caseback are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

Whilst the watch is keeping excellent time, with all functions working as they should, the watch is offered with a complimentary service by Voutilainen, within 12 months of purchase. It also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man.